Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Subtleties&Stuffe Massialot on Sugar Boiling Part III

Massialot's instructions continue with the instructions for the Crack'd  and Caramel stages, along with advice on which stage was used for which items.

The Crack’d Boiling.
         To know when the Sugar has attain’d to this degree, a Pot or Pan, must be provided, with cold Water: Then dip the tip of your Finger into that Water, and having dexterously run it into the boiling Sugar, dip it again immediately into the Water, at least if you would avoid scalding your self: Thus keeping your Finger in the Water, rub off the Sugar, with the other two; and if it breaks afterwards, making a kind of crackling Noise, it is come to the point of Boiling, call’d Crack’d. [p 3]

The Caramel Boiling.

         If in the condition, to which the Sugar is reduc’d in the former Boiling, it be put between the Teeth, it would stick to to them as it were Glue or Pitch; but when it is boil’d to Caramel, it breaks and cracks, without sticking in the least. Therefore care must be taken to observe every Moment, when it has attain’d to this last degree of Boiling; putting the preceding Directions into Practice, to know, when it is Crack’d, and afterwards biting the Sugar so order’d with your Teeth, to try whether it will stick to them: As soon as you perceive, that it does not stick, but on the contrary, cracks and breaks clever, take it off immediately from the fire; otherwise it would burn, and be no longer good for any manner of use, because it will always taste burnt: Whereas with respect to the other well-condition’d Boilings, if after having preserv’d any Sweet-meats, some Sugar be still left, that is Crack’d, for example, or greatly Feathered, and that is of no further use in that condition, it would be only requisite to put as much Water to it, as is needful to boil it over again, and then it many be brought to whatsoever degree you shall think fit, and even intermix’d with any other sort of Sugar, or Syrup.

         This last Caramel-boiling is proper for Barley-sugar, and for certain small Sugar-works call’d by that Name, which shall be hereafter explain’d: The Pearled Boiling is generally us’d for all sorts of Confits, that are to be kept for a considerable time: Some cause their Sugar to be boil’d to a higher degree, but it is soon undone and reduc’d to the Pearled Quality, by the Moisture and Coldness of the Fruits, that are thrown into it. The Use of the other Ways of Boiling shall be strewn in treating of the several sorts of Sweet-meats, for which they requisite.

         It is also necessary to understand, That sometimes Fruit may be preserv’d with thin Sugar, that is to say, when two Ladles full of clarified Sugar are put to one of Water, four to two, six to three, and so on proportionably to the quantity of the Fruit, that ought to be well soak’d in it: To that purpose, the Sugar and Water must be heated together somewhat more than lukewarm, to be poured upon them.” [p 4]

as found in
Massialot, François. “New Instructions for Confectioners; Directing How to Preserve all sorts of Fruits, as well dry, as liquid; also how to make divers Sugar-works, and other fine Pieces of Curiosity belonging to the Confectionary Art” in
The Court and Country Cook : Giving New and Plain Directions How to Order All Manner of Entertainments, ... London, 1702.

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