Menon, continued from the 1769 English second edition of The Professed Cook: or the Modern Art of Cookery
Cuissons
au grand Perle, et la petite, & la grande Queue de Cochon, au Souffle,
& a la petite Plume.
Third, fourth, fifth, sixth,
seventh, and eighth Degrees of refining. Perle,
from Pearl from large and small, small and large Pig’s or Tails puffed or blowed;
Plume, Feather. [p 508]
The grand Perle is boiled a
little longer than the small, and is known to be the Degree wanted, by not
breaking, by all the Extension that can be made with the Fingers; and also when
it forms in small Pearls in the Boiling, round and raised; by which I presume it
takes its Name; in boiling this last a little longer, it comes to the fifth Degree,
petit Queue de Cochon; it is known,
by taking up some of the Sugar with a skimmer, and drop it into the boiling Sugar
again; if it forms a slanting [standing?] Streak on the Surface, this is the
little Pig's-tail. The sixth degree is la
grande Queue de Cochon, which directed as follows by a little more Boiling;
and tried in the same Manner as the last, forms a larger Pig's tail. After a
little more boiling comes the seventh Degree, au soufflé, blowed; which is known by dipping a Skimmer in it; give
it a Shake, and blow through it directly; if it blows to small Sparks of Sugar,
or Kinds of small Bladders, it is to the proposed Qualification. The eighth
comes with a little more Boiling, La
petite Plume, small Feathers, which is known by the same trial; the Difference
only is, that the Sparks or Bladders are to be larger, and of a stronger
substance. [p 508-509]
[Wheaton lists petit and grand perle
as being 220-222 degrees F. Petit and
grand queue de cochon are upper 220s.
The skimmer soufflé stage is 228-230.
Lower 230 degrees are the plume
stages. p 184]
Le grande
Plume. A large Feather, ninth Degree.
It is known by the former Method, by still
more boiling, and the Proof stronger; or the surest is by dipping a Skimmer in
it, and give it a strong Turn-over Shake of the Hand; if it turns to large Sparks,
which clog together in the Rising, it is done to this Degree. [p 509]
Le
petit Boulet
A small or Bullet, tenth Degree.
It is done by a little more Boiling,
and proved by dipping two Fingers in cold Water, and directly into the Sugar,
and into cold Water again; what sticks to your Fingers, ought to roll up like a
Bit of Paste, hard enough to roll in small Bullets and to remain pretty supple,
when cold. [p 509]
Eleventh Degree Le gros Boulet large Bullet; this is proved
by the last Method, which by a little more Boiling makes the Bullet harder, when
cold, as it ought to be. [p 510]
[Wheaton lists petit and grand boulet as being 235-265 degrees F. p 184]
Le
Casse, broken;
By continuing to boil the sugar,
it is known by the same Method, as in the two last; the only Difference is, that
the Bullet which is made of this, ought to crumble between the Fingers, being
first dipped in cold Water; twelfth Degree. [p 510]
Le
Caramel. Burnt Sugar, thirteenth Degree.
The refining is little
different from the last; to make it pretty clear, squeeze some Lemon in it,
while it is boiling; there is also a deep Colour Caramel, of which the Uses shall
be mentioned; it is made with only a little Water, with the Sugar boiling it,
without stirring to raise any Scum, until it is to the Colour required; and to
take it off the Fire for present Use, to all the different Degrees of Preparation;
if missed at first, add a little Water to refresh the Sugar, and boil it over again,
until it comes to the Qualification required. [p 510]
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